WELLINGTON, New Zealand (AP) 鈥 As tens of thousands crowded the streets in New Zealand鈥檚 capital, Wellington, on Tuesday, the throng of people, flags aloft, had the air of a festival or a parade rather than a protest.
They were marching to oppose a law that would between Indigenous M膩ori and the British Crown. But for many, it was also a celebration of a that colonization had once almost destroyed.
鈥淛ust fighting for the rights that our t奴puna, our ancestors, fought for,鈥 Shanell Bob said as she waited for the march to begin. 鈥淲e鈥檙e fighting for our tamariki, for our mokopuna, so they can have what we haven鈥檛 been able to have,鈥 she added, using the M膩ori words for children and grandchildren.
What was likely the country鈥檚 largest-ever protest in support of M膩ori rights 鈥 a subject that has preoccupied modern New Zealand for much of its young history 鈥 followed a long tradition of peaceful cross-country marches that have marked turning points in the nation's story.
鈥淲e鈥檙e going for a walk!鈥 one organizer proclaimed from the stage as crowds gathered at the opposite end of the city from the nation鈥檚 Parliament. People had traveled from across the nation over the past nine days.
For many, the turnout reflected growing solidarity on Indigenous rights from non-M膩ori. At bus stops during the usual morning commute, people of all ages and races waited with M膩ori sovereignty flags. Some local schools said they would not register students as absent. The city鈥檚 mayor joined the protest.
The bill that marchers are opposing . But opposition to it has been widespread, which marchers said indicated rising knowledge of the Treaty of Waitangi鈥檚 promises to M膩ori among New Zealanders 鈥 and a small but vocal backlash from those who are angered by the attempts of courts and lawmakers to keep them.
M膩ori marching for their rights is not new. But the crowds were larger than at treaty marches before and the mood was changed, Indigenous people said.
鈥淚t鈥檚 different to when I was a child,鈥 Bob said. 鈥淲e鈥檙e stronger now, our tamariki are stronger now, they know who they are, they鈥檙e proud of who they are.鈥
As the marchers moved through the streets of Wellington with ringing M膩ori haka 鈥 rhythmic chants 鈥 and waiata, or songs, thousands more holding signs lined the pavement in support.
Some placards bore jokes or insults about the lawmakers responsible for the bill, which would change the meaning of the principles of the 1840 Treaty of Waitangi and prevent them from applying only to M膩ori 鈥 whose chiefs signed the document when New Zealand was colonized.
But others read 鈥減roud to be M膩ori鈥 or acknowledged the bearer鈥檚 heritage as a non-M膩ori person endorsing the protest. Some denounced the widespread expropriation of M膩ori land during colonization, one of the main grievances arising from the treaty.
鈥淭he treaty is a document that lets us be here in Aotearoa so holding it up and respecting it is really important,鈥 said Ben Ogilvie, who is of P膩keh膩 or New Zealand European descent, using the M膩ori name for the country. 鈥淚 hate what this government is doing to tear it down.鈥
Police estimated that 42,000 people tried to crowd into Parliament鈥檚 grounds, with some spilling into the surrounding streets. People crammed themselves onto the children's slide on the lawn for a vantage point; others perched in trees. The tone was almost joyful; as people waited to leave the cramped area, some struck up M膩ori songs that most New Zealanders learn at school.
A sea of M膩ori sovereignty flags in red, black and white stretched down the lawn and into the streets. But marchers bore Samoan, Tongan, Indigenous Australian, U.S., Palestinian and Israeli flags, too. At Parliament, speeches from political leaders drew attention to the reason for the protest 鈥 a proposed law that would change the meaning of words in the country鈥檚 founding treaty, cement them in law and extend them to everyone.
Its author, libertarian lawmaker David Seymour 鈥 who is M膩ori 鈥 says the process of redress for decades of Crown breaches of its treaty with M膩ori has created special treatment for Indigenous people, which he opposes.
The bill鈥檚 detractors say it would spell constitutional upheaval, dilute Indigenous rights, and that it has provoked divisive rhetoric about M膩ori 鈥 who are still disadvantaged on almost every social and economic metric, despite attempts by the courts and lawmakers in recent decades to rectify inequities caused in large part by breaches of the treaty.
It is not expected to ever become law, but Seymour made a political deal that saw it shepherded through a first vote last Thursday. In a statement Tuesday, he said the public could now make submissions on the bill, which he hopes will experience a swell of support.
Seymour briefly walked out onto Parliament鈥檚 forecourt to observe the protest, although he was not among the lawmakers invited to speak. Some in the crowd booed him.
The protest was 鈥渁 long time coming,鈥 said Papa Heta, one of the marchers, who said M膩ori sought acknowledgement and respect.
鈥淲e hope that we can unite with our P膩keh膩 friends, Europeans," he added. "Unfortunately, there are those that make decisions that put us in a difficult place.鈥
